We left Kalymnos early before the weather could worsen. As we passed the island’s wild slopes plunging into the sea, Turgutreis gradually faded off our starboard side; we sheltered at Beetfish’s stern while crossing the dark-blue waves.
At Leros we moored stern-to behind the fishing shelter in Pandeli harbour. We swam at Apostolis Beach and lingered over a long, ouzo-filled late lunch. We walked to Agia Marina for coffee at Paradosiako, then feasted on our own catch aboard. The night ended beneath six windmills and the illuminated castle founded by the Byzantines and strengthened by the Knights of Rhodes.
Where Kalymnos felt hard and barren, Leros was gentle and green. Once again the weather spared us, leaving only a soft roll on the water and a mild breeze.