At 7.45 a.m. we set out on an unexpectedly calm sea. South of Lipsi we reached a rocky island group and moored stern-to at Makronisos. Arriving before the day boats, we found a little paradise of caves and an inner lagoon accessible by dinghy. Diving through from the tiny inland sea to the far side became one of the finest experiences of the trip.
We made a short tour of Lipsi’s harbour village. In this settlement of roughly 700 people, we bought biscuits and local honey from Kairis and visited the Church of Panaghia of Choras. The whitewashed houses seemed to shelter behind one another from the wind.
In the afternoon we moved to Platis Gialos, explored four small coves by dinghy and swam off Dalialia’s colourful café hidden in greenery. We barbecued on the flybridge with rakı that evening. When the slender new moon disappeared, the Milky Way emerged; I saw four shooting stars and was too excited to remember to make a wish.