We ate breakfast at anchor off the tiny village of Armenistis, then headed for Seychelles Beach. We left the boat offshore and swam in; the water was cool and crystal-clear. We saw two sea bream while snorkelling, although our attempts at fishing once again came to nothing.
The coast grew into immense masses of rock, with few people and nature everywhere. We had planned to stay at Manganitis, but a ferry forced us to move on, so we spent the night at Karkinagri. Over dinner we met Marie, a French woman who had lived there for nine years. She hikes in the mountains and teaches French at the local school. “It was love at first sight,” she said of Ikaria. “This place made me feel that I belonged.”