We saw Berfin off at 11.30 am and left Kos harbour an hour later. Wind and waves were still with us.
At 1.30 pm we reached Vathy. Its deep, narrow inlet was crowded with excursion boats, so we stayed in Almyres Bay instead. Surrounded by sheer cliffs, the navy-blue anchorage is twenty to forty metres deep and has a cold-water spring and a small beach.
Kalymnos is defined by three things: sponge divers, rock and sea. For centuries, its divers travelled as far as Libya, Egypt, Tunisia and Syria, spending months gathering natural sponges.
After an afternoon nap we tried fishing, ate dinner and played Americano with okey tiles. The night was pitch-black, and the stars seemed close enough to touch.