We left Livadia at 6.00 am intending to reach Astypalaia, but wind and waves carried us not where we wished to go, but where they allowed. At 10.30 am we reached Nisyros.
Nisyros bears one of the Aegean’s most ancient names, older even than Homer. The imposing stone building on its quiet shore is not a monastery but a former spa hotel, a remnant of the Italian ambition to make the island a thermal-tourism destination.
In mythology, Poseidon tore a great rock from Kos and threw it onto the fleeing giant Polybotes, creating Nisyros. The volcanic steam was said to be the breath of the giant still moving beneath the island.
In our tiny Toyota we followed the winding roads from Mandraki to Nikia, Pali and Emporios. Mastic trees, adapted to drought, wind and volcanic soil, seemed to embody the island’s resilience.
At Stefanos Crater, roughly 330 by 260 metres, hot gases and the smell of sulphur reminded us that the volcano is not entirely asleep. Science describes an active volcanic system; mythology imagines a living giant underground.
Balcony Restaurant in Emporios became our favourite. The goat, almond tarator and cheese-filled courgette flowers were excellent. That evening the girls beat us at okey.