Sunday
As the bell tower mingled with the sound of Sunday Mass, we set off at 7.30 am, travelling with our eyes not yet fully open. We tied stern-to in Faneromeni Bay, Orkun and Osman’s “secret bay”. Breakfast came under attack from both sea and bees. The wind would reach 44 knots that night, so we headed north towards the main harbour. Perhaps we could still enter one more bay for a swim.
Whitecaps dotted the sea like little lambs.
Thanks to the dressing on my burn and the plastic wrap over it, I went into the sea with one arm held in the air. Pufferfish again, and more pufferfish.
We anchored off Nanou Beach. It is a white-pebble beach lined with navy-blue umbrellas.
The return was very wavy, but it felt like a lullaby to me and I slept beautifully.
When I woke, we were in Symi, moored in front of Pantelis, the restaurant known for its view of the colourful houses. Boats had lined up side by side for shelter from the wind. We threw ourselves into the streets and walked from one end of town to the other. We passed on the recommended Pantelis and Manos restaurants and ate at Tholos, run by women at the far end of the harbour. I ordered goat again, and everything was delicious.
The harbour is like a boat gallery, with everything from mega-yachts to fishing boats. We walked along looking at them. We were practically sitting in the street. That night, we slept in the cabin.