Sixth Day
We set off early. We are climbing to Tiger’s Nest — Paro Taktsang — first on horseback, then on foot.
Perhaps the price of pilgrimage is the same everywhere: effort, suffering and a difficult destination. Time to think about your life and meditate.
Tiger’s Nest
Guru Rinpoche — Padmasambhava — arrived from Tibet in the eighth century and played a vital role in spreading Buddhism in Bhutan.
Before him, there were shamanic and animistic beliefs, with rocks, trees, mountains and spirits considered sacred. Powerful sacred spirits were believed to inhabit the cave at this height.
Legend says his disciple Tashi Khyidron transformed into a tigress. Guru Rinpoche flew here on her back and subdued the evil spirits.
Rather than being destroyed, the old spirits and gods became Buddhist protective deities, associated with long life, wealth and health.
Thus Buddhism developed in Bhutan without entirely rejecting earlier shamanic beliefs.
A small shrine was built first, but the present monastery dates from the late seventeenth century.
Bhutan’s founder, Zhabdrung Ngawang Namgyal, wished for a temple here. Gyalse Tenzin Rabgye later fulfilled that wish. Construction began in 1692 and was completed in 1694.
A major fire in 1998 destroyed much of the monastery and killed a monk serving inside. It was subsequently rebuilt.
One of the most striking stories concerns Guru Sungjonma, the “speaking Guru” statue.
According to legend, when its bearers could not work out how to carry it across the precipice, the statue spoke and promised help.
This bronze statue is also believed to have survived the 1998 fire unharmed. Accounts say it survived an earlier fire too.
We were told of a child recognised as a reincarnation of Gyalse Tenzin Rabgye, who had overseen the monastery’s construction: a four-year-old receiving special education.
Monks serve at Tiger’s Nest in shifts, taking responsibility for maintenance, cleaning and daily religious life.
Inside are several small temples and prayer rooms, each with altars. Phones are not allowed, and shoes must be removed.
We became pilgrims alongside people from around the world, especially Buddhists.
An enchanting place with a powerful atmosphere. Whatever you believe, beauty like this affects you.
Climbing to Tiger’s Nest and being there was special.
First, we rode to the place called the cafeteria, taking around half an hour. Visitors can walk or ride this far.
Honestly, I was glad I rode: the mountainside was steep, with many steps.
After the cafeteria came another hour or so of climbing.
The hardest part was descending the stairs into the waterfall valley and climbing again to reach the monastery.
My pulse sometimes reached the 150s, so I needed plenty of rests. My left leg gave me trouble too, but we made it down and up.
The walking poles were lifesavers.
We were caught in rain on the return, reaching the bus utterly exhausted.
This was our most outdoorsy trip yet. I could not tell whether we had been on holiday or in training.
But it was worth it.
Our belongings were blessed, and I learned the meaning of the name I had drawn by lot at a Buddhist monastery:
Bestower and distributor of wealth; fortunate.
Gökhan’s Bhutanese name means:
Fearless Knowledge.
And honestly, that is not wrong.