We fly from Honolulu to Maui. Our hotel stands on the bay where the first season of *The White Lotus* was filmed. Maui is greener, with a fertile valley stretching between two great volcanic mountains. The mountains shape winds and rainfall, so it is usually possible to find a calmer bay on another side of the island.
The sea is magnificent. We also see humpback whales, which come to Hawaiian waters between November and April to give birth, nurse their calves and mate. Listening to their voices is extraordinary. After the intensity of Honolulu, Maui’s greenery, quiet bays and open horizon completely change the rhythm of the journey.