Second day
Our first stop is Kathmandu Durbar Square.
The historic centre developed around Kathmandu's old royal palace, particularly during the reign of the Malla kings.
Many of its historic buildings were badly damaged in Nepal's great earthquake of 2015. Nepal, other countries and international organisations subsequently supported the restoration work.
The traditional brick buildings and extraordinary Newari woodwork are still deeply impressive. Doors, windows and wooden columns are intricately carved.
Tiny shops surround the square. It reminds me a little of Mahmutpaşa in Istanbul.
Kumari, the living goddess
There is a Kumari festival around the time of our visit.
One of Kathmandu's most remarkable traditions is the living goddess, Kumari.
There is more than one Kumari in the Kathmandu Valley, but the most important is the Royal Kumari who lives in Durbar Square.
The current Kumari is still a tiny child. Three years old.
The Kumari leaves her family and lives in Kumari Ghar, where she receives a special education. When she goes outside, her feet must not touch the ground; she is carried or placed in a ceremonial chariot. Inside the house, she can walk.
On special occasions, she is dressed and adorned, then shown to the public at a window or during ceremonies.
When she reaches puberty, traditionally her first menstrual period, her time as Kumari ends and another little girl is chosen.
The tradition is thought to be several hundred years old, and it is a fascinating example of Hindu and Buddhist traditions intertwining.
When we visited, the newly chosen little Kumari was at home. Schoolchildren had come to see her too.
On one side, a tiny child of about three; on the other, people who regard her as a goddess…
It is an image that really stays with you.
An old belief held that bad things would happen to a man who married a former Kumari; stories about the difficulties former Kumaris face in marrying are still told.
The Gurkhas
We hear the Gurkha story again here.
Gorkha is actually the name of a region in Nepal.
At the end of the Anglo-Nepalese War of 1814–1816, Nepal and the British signed the Treaty of Sugauli. Nepal remained independent but lost some territory.
Impressed by the Gurkhas' fighting skills, the British began recruiting them into their own army. The tradition continues today.
Selection is extremely difficult. Only a very small number of young applicants pass the physical and mental tests. These include running, carrying loads and endurance exercises.
Being a Gurkha is still a matter of considerable prestige in Nepal.
Nepal and India
There is no date when Nepal separated from India, because Nepal was never part of British India.
In the eighteenth century, Prithvi Narayan Shah conquered the separate kingdoms of the Kathmandu Valley, laying the foundations of modern Nepal. Kathmandu, Patan and Bhaktapur were once the centres of separate kingdoms.
You can sense how much Nepalis value their differences from India.
They even express this through their clocks: India is UTC+5:30, while Nepal is UTC+5:45. Just fifteen minutes apart.
The royal family's tragedy
Here I correct the most important date error in my notes.
The event takes place on 1 June 2001.
According to the official investigation, Crown Prince Dipendra shoots King Birendra, Queen Aishwarya and several other members of the royal family during a family dinner at the palace. He then shoots himself and dies a few days later.
Even today, many theories about the reason circulate in Nepal. They say it was about a girl, they mention the CIA. But I think the uncle is the main suspect.
After most of the family dies, King Birendra's brother Gyanendra takes the throne. The uncle.
Meanwhile, a Maoist insurgency has been underway since 1996. When King Gyanendra sidelines parliament and assumes direct power in 2005, opposition grows further.
The Maoists and other political parties unite against the king. The Maoists win.
In 2006, a major popular movement ends the king's political power.
In 2008, the monarchy is abolished altogether and Nepal becomes a republic.
So 2001 is the year of the royal family's tragedy; 2008 is the year the monarchy ends.
Nepal's flag
Nepal's flag is unlike every other country's flag.
It is the only non-rectangular national flag, made up of two stacked triangles.
The shape is said to evoke the Himalayan mountains and traditional pagoda architecture.
Red is Nepal's national colour and the colour of its national flower, the rhododendron. The blue border symbolises peace.
The moon and sun are interpreted as symbols of Nepal enduring for as long as the moon and sun exist.
They also tell us that the two triangles represent Everest and the second great mountain beside it.
Not 120, but more than 140 communities
Nepal has extraordinary ethnic diversity. Older sources mention around 120 ethnic or caste groups; more recent censuses classify over 140.
Throughout history, the Kathmandu Valley has been one of the important centres of this diversity.
And once again we come back to the same thought:
This was once a lake.
Hinduism and Buddhism
Kathmandu's living goddess Kumari is the perfect example.
Both Hindus and Buddhists revere the Kumari.
Hinduism and Buddhism really do come close to one another on many points: karma, rebirth,
Dinner is at The Dwarika's Hotel. An extraordinary place.
It began with the dream of a Nepali family. Dwarika Das Shrestha noticed that carved wooden pieces were being lost as old Newar houses were demolished, and began collecting them. Over time, this very special hotel emerged, keeping old Newar architecture and craftsmanship alive.
The next morning we set off early for Bhutan.