On our second day in Peru, the sun is even brighter and hotter. The sky is blue, the air is clear, and there is still snow on the mountain tops. Seeing the snow-covered hills while burning under the sun in the middle of the Andes reminds one of how extraordinary this geography is.
Our route today is first the Maras Salt Pools, then the Moray agricultural terraces and the incredible Mil restaurant experience.
Once on the road, our guide talked about the formation of the Andes Mountains. This giant mountain system was formed when the Pacific plate was pushed under the South American plate. In other words, those majestic mountains we look at today are the result of millions of years of geological movements. The reason why traces of limestone are found at some elevations is that these places were associated with marine sediments in ancient times. When you look at the mountains, you don't just see the view; You are actually looking at the old story of the world.
We watch the peaks along the way. Peru's highest mountain, Huascarán, is approximately 6,768 meters. The highest mountain in South America is Aconcagua in Argentina, around 6,961 meters. In the area we saw, Mount Verónica was very impressive. It is also formerly known as Wakay Willka, meaning “sacred tear”. Verónica is one of the most important peaks of the Urubamba Range and is approximately 5,860–5,890 meters high.
In Andean culture, mountains are not just mountains. They are seen as Apu, or guardian spirits. Some mountains are thought of as men, some as women, and some as relatives. This was very impressive to me. What is a landscape for us is a living, sacred and relatable entity for those who live here.
Maras Salt Pools
Our first stop was Maras Salt Pools. Thousands of small pools in shades of white, cream and pink are laid out on the slopes of the mountain... When you look from a distance, it is as if a giant mosaic was built on the mountain. It reminds me of Pamukkale.
Here you understand better how valuable salt has been throughout human history. Not just to add flavor to meals; it is also a very valuable mineral for storing food, giving it to animals, bartering and sustaining life.
The system here dates back even further than the Incas. Salt water passes through the salt deposits inside the mountain and rises to the surface. This natural spring water is directed to pools through small channels. Water is supplied to each pool through small holes. The bottoms of the pools are made of compressed clay; the clay is laid out, stepped on, hardened by beating with wooden mallets. It is very important that there is no air gap in between, because the water should not be absorbed into the soil and remain in the pool.
Then the sun comes into play. The water sits in the pools for a few weeks, the sun evaporates the water and salt remains. The first salt formed is whiter and is used like table salt. Salt that is left on the bottom for a longer period of time takes on the color of the clay and turns into pink-brown tones. The rock salt produced here today has the feeling of both traditional and organic production.
Salt harvesting takes place especially during the dry season, that is, approximately between May and October. The dilution of water during the rainy season and the inability to dry the pools make production difficult. It is said that the villagers of Maras and Pichingoto continued this tradition from family to family, the pools were run by local families and the salt was collected by evaporation. Production here is still carried out by families and local communities.
Moray: Inca Agricultural Laboratory
After Maras, we went to Moray. At first glance, this place looks like a giant amphitheater. In fact, at first they thought it was a ceremonial area. Interlocking circular terraces, layers going down... This is one of the most interesting agricultural experiment areas of the Inca period.
Each terrace level in Moray creates a different microclimate. There can be a serious temperature difference between the bottom floor and the top floor. That's why Moray is often described as the "agricultural laboratory of the Incas". They may have tried at what altitude, at what temperature and in what soil would yield better results for potatoes, beans and different agricultural products. There are also comments that soil samples were brought from different regions.
The potato issue is also very important here. Peru is one of the homelands of potatoes. Many different types of potatoes have been growing in the Andes for thousands of years. As our guide explained, many varieties have been developed to withstand disease, cold, drought and different altitudes. So agriculture here is not just “planting and reaping”; it means reading nature, trying it, preserving it and preserving diversity.
While walking around Moray, the modern greenhouse system comes to mind. They solved what we are trying to do with technology today by using nature's slope, sun, wind and temperature differences.
We have an incredible experience at Mil restaurant after Moray. It is a vivid indicator of how Peruvian culinary culture comes together with local production and what kind of experience it turns into. We are introduced to the various ingredients that make up Peruvian cuisine, from the various types of corn and potatoes grown to the quinoa plant and fermented beverages.
Founded by Virgilio Martínez, the restaurant embraces traditional production and cooking techniques. Martínez also owns Central and Kjolle restaurants in Lima.
Life and Family in the Andes
On the way, we talked not only about history but also about the lifestyle of the Andean people. Family is very important here. Even though they have become Catholics, it is possible to see that old beliefs and respect for nature and mountains still continue.
Our guide talked about three basic principles of Inca ethics:
You shall not steal.
You will not lie.
You won't be lazy.
These three sentences actually give a very strong idea of social order. Because life in the mountains is not easy. Everyone needs to work, be reliable, live in harmony with the community.
In Andean villages, families work together. Children start helping the family in the fields from an early age. Marriage, spouse selection, dances and carnivals; all intertwined with agriculture and community life. Traditions such as men lifting women up in dances and showing their strength were also part of this culture.
Our guide made a very nice analogy when talking about Andean geese. The devotion of these birds to their mates is likened to the family and spouse relationships of the Andean people. Life in the mountains is not a life to be lived alone. People need each other, their spouses, their families and their neighbors. Maybe that's why taking care of the elderly, protecting the family, and looking after children and even grandchildren are such strong values in Latin America.
Languages, Identity and Ancient Cultures
Peru's linguistic richness continues to surprise me. Today, the official language of the country is Spanish, but before Spanish, many indigenous languages were spoken in these lands. The most well-known languages in the Andean world are Quechua and Aymara. There is also the Puquina language, which is no longer alive today but is historically important. It is stated that Puquina was spoken especially in multilingual communities around Lake Titicaca, and then disappeared towards the 19th century.
There are still Aymara-speaking communities around Lake Titicaca today. Quechua, on the other hand, is still spoken by millions of people as the most important language of the Inca world. It's interesting that some sounds sound Japanese or Chinese to us; but this similarity stems mostly from the sound structure that reaches our ears. We are talking about completely different language families in origin.
Colonial Memory
During the colonial period, after the Spanish arrived, the indigenous people experienced severe oppression. There were many people forced to work in the mines, especially those sent to places such as Potosí in today's Bolivia. Many did not return.
The guide's statement, "There were great losses in 1781," describes the Túpac Amaru II rebellion and the harsh suppression period that followed. In 1780-1781, there was a major uprising of the indigenous people against the colonial order, heavy taxes and forced labor. The rebellion was suppressed bloodily. This date is still a very strong turning point in Peru's indigenous memory.
The feeling the day left me with is respect; My respect for its ancient culture and people.
We are having a billiards tournament at our hotel in the evening. We need to develop this business as a family, but in the end, Derin and Gökhan duo wins the game. The country is boiling, we are here. Even though my mind is there, I feel very lucky to be here with my family.